Travelling Japan with Kids
By Jo Macgregor from The Tokyo Chapter
Jo is a bilingual Mum who’s lived in Japan for more than 13 years total with her husband and two kids, blogging about her experiences, tips and tricks to thousands of readers online. Check out her blog here.
Here’s her exclusive guide to travelling to Kyoto with children!
TRAVEL TIPS - To make the most of your time in Kyoto with children
It is not uncommon to come across anxious parent mid-Japan planning for their family - hoping to rush through the “boring” Kyoto part for children. “Oh, this part is really for the grown-ups,” they say. “They are going to hate all those temples and shrines so much. They’ll get their fun part of the holiday again once we get back to Tokyo…” In the same way that European cities are more than churches or historical architecture, there are so many different types of Kyoto to explore as a family. Yes, that can include world heritage sites of historical and spiritual significance - but I believe that cultural exploration as a family is so just so much more.
What better place to let curiosity lead a child-friendly itinerary than Kyoto! Kyoto makes it easy for families to lean into a rich and varied itinerary. It is just so exhilarating to watch families deep dive into cultural exploration in Kyoto in so many varied ways. Because, you see… in Kyoto:
“Old-world Japan” is also so heavily intertwined with “modern, oh-so-Japan” Japan (a matcha ice-cream from a vending machine just next to one of Kyoto’s most famous temples? Yes please!)
Kyoto is picturesque but also so green - and for families - that also means lots of open, green spaces for families to play, picnic, hike and explore.
Kyoto deeply embraces the seasons whole-heartedly in every way. This doesn’t just mean for autumn leaves vs cherry blossoms. Families can visit Kyoto at different times of the year and not only take in varied natural landscapes or experience different festivals and events. The time of year shows up on their dinner plate as even the ingredients and flavours shift with the seasons at meal times.
HOW DOES PREPARATION & PLANNING FOR A JAPAN TRIP DIFFER WHEN TRAVELLING WITH CHILDREN?
Things to consider while putting together your Kyoto itinerary for a family holiday
PACE
Like all holidays with children, marking out that perfect pace for the ages and capabilities of children can play a major role in making the most of overseas adventures. This can be of particular importance when exploring Japanese cities like Kyoto. This is not a by-the-pool beach holiday. Therefore, depending on family life stages, it’s best to take on board things like attention spans, nap timings, walking and step count capability.
The most successful young family itineraries in Kyoto have a planned framework for each day. A framework to come back to yet also allows for spontaneity and flexibility. Oh, and one more thing - they take into account the travel interests of the parents too. A Kyoto itinerary for children works well when it includes:
A relatively active morning activity
A visually exciting or interactive lunch (there are many different types of meals in Japan where children can watch their meal being prepared and also many where they can be involved in the cooking experience, itself). Lunch menus are almost always much more affordable than the dinner option.
A sightseeing spot for the whole family
Another interactive activity such as a park play, children’s museum or sightseeing spot
And the final, (yet, often most important) element to a successful day out in Kyoto? Having parks, playgrounds, playcentres or dessert treat spots pre-planned and dotted throughout the areas to be explored that particular day. These spots may not be required but are fabulous to have on hand when kids need downtime to just “be kids.”
“MOMENTS” TO INCLUDE IN A KYOTO FAMILY ITINERARY
A temple with a zen garden (and also some koi spotting)
A sukiyaki/shabu-shabu dining experience
A family karaoke booth session
A walk through a bamboo forest (doesn’t have to be Arashiyama)
A ride of a jinrikisha (a Japanese rickshaw)
A family gyoza dinner
A “shopping spree” at a 100 yen shop
Some basic rules and potential differences to take into consideration before visiting Japan with children
RESTAURANTS WHO WELCOME CHILDREN
So many restaurants welcome families in Kyoto - but that doesn't mean that children are welcome at every establishment (particularly in the evenings.). Part of this is down to guest experience as not all restaurants are designed for families, some do not have the set-up in order to keep children safe (eg. only high counter seating), others just don't have the space for families. Also some restaurants and bars still allow smoking in Japan - not ideal for families anyway.
One way to search for family-friendly restaurants in Kyoto is to look on a site called Tabelog. There is a search filter "Children Welcome." If stuck at any point, Shopping Mall restaurants and Station Building restaurant options (including above and underneath Kyoto Station) are almost always kid and baby friendly.
SWIMMING POOL RULES
Many hotel pools in Japan are only open in July & August - so don't get too excited if the hotel website boasts beautiful pool facilities. Also best to check the pool rules regarding minimum age for children, rules for children in swimming diapers and whether or not swim caps are mandatory. Also a good idea to read the fine print for adults if you have tattoos.
NAPPIES/DIAPERS AREN'T ALWAYS EASILY AVAILABLE TO PURCHASE
Diapers are bulky stock for Japanese drugstores and convenience stores. The bigger drugstores and supermarkets are a safer option. The most reliable place to shop for diapers/nappies is the Toys R Us/ Babies R Us within Aeon Mall Kyoto - just a few minutes walk from Kyoto Station. It's a good idea to pack 3-4 days worth of nappies in the suitcase to avoid having to scramble for options upon arrival.
CAR SEAT REGULATIONS
Children are not required to use car-seats in taxis or buses in Japan. For those who feel uneasy about this may want to look into private transfers or purchasing travel safety harnesses (the type that attach to seatbelts) instead.
ONSENS & PUBLIC BATHS
Almost always, onsens and public baths are for bathing without clothing on (no exceptions for children or teens.) Understandably, this isn't for everyone so it may be best to skip - or try to visit at less busy times such as early in the morning or over dinner hours (as many Japanese people take an onsen late in the evening.)
BEFORE TRAVELLING TO JAPAN WITH CHILDREN KNOWING HEIGHT & WEIGHT (METRIC)
Knowing the weight (kg) and height (cm) of children ahead of time can make many aspects of a Japanese holiday easier. For example, children's clothing is sold by height in centimeters—T-shirts in many stores will have "110 cm" on the label. Child (and adult) footwear is also sold in sizes based on foot length in centimeters. Nappies/diapers are sold by weight in kilograms. Knowing a child's weight in kilograms can also be helpful when renting bikes or strollers. Additionally, being aware of an older child's height and weight can help determine which amusement park rides they meet the height restrictions for.
DOWNLOAD USEFUL APPS FOR PARENTS
Mamapapamap - for locating restrooms with change tables, nursing rooms, kettles with hot water for making up baby formula or spaces with microwaves for heating up baby food My Mizu - places around Japan to refill a drink bottle with water for free Google Maps-the "wheelchair accessible" feature shows where to find elevators which is so helpful for travelling with a stroller
PACKING FOR JAPAN WITH CHILDREN STROLLERS & BABY CARRIERS
Exploring Japanese cities can mean more walking than many families are used to at home. For this reason a baby carrier (front type) and a stroller (even for children as old as four or five) is one of the most important tools for parents on a Japan holiday. If bringing double strollers, best to avoid a tandem or wagon option as these will limit gates or storefront entry and can limit restaurant choice considerably.
FAMILIAR SNACKS
Understandably, some children find all the new foods in Japan to be overwhelming at first so familiar crackers or snack packs are helpful.
•Convenience stores are also fabulous for fresh produce and premade rice balls and bentos - made fresh daily. Supermarkets have even more options.
EASY ON AND OFF SHOES
For obvious reasons. Leave the shoes with lots of laces and buckles for home. Shoes will be on and off in hotels, homes and some restaurants and temples
GENERAL ETIQUETTE TIPS FOR FAMILIES IN JAPAN
Here are some tips that may be helpful and also ease the mind of parents:
* No need to worry about picky eaters. Japanese convenience stores and supermarkets have lots of familiar options. It is also possible to holiday in Japan without eating Japanese food at all-
should that be required.
* Despite what many people think - children do not need to finish everything on their plate at a restaurant. Thanking the staff politely is fine.
* Nothing bad will happen if a child is a bit noisy on a train. It is a good idea to brief children on trying to be quiet on public transportation but the attempt to be quiet is often appreciated too (It's a good time to give children a small treat like a few m&ms, a book to read. Older children also enjoy being in charge counting stations to go on the journey etc)
* Best for parents to hold train passes or tickets and hand them back to children at while entering and exiting train stations
* Polite train protocol is to let other passengers off before stepping on to the train (same rule for elevators, too)
* Children who are young enough to not require a ticket for train travel can enter the station through the ticket gates with their parents. When entering with a stroller, use the ticket gate next to the manned window.
* Try to avoid getting off the train and standing in the doorway. Move to the middle of the platform to get bearings sorted.
* Children and babies can take an onsen with parents at any age. Just as for adults, bodies need to be washed at the washing stations next to the bath. Many children enjoy this washing part the most. The bath itself is very hot and children rarely spend a long time soaking.
Different venues have different rules about the age or height at which children cannot bathe with the parent of the opposite gender. It's fine to ask. It is a good idea to remind children that the
onsen is a place for relaxation and isn't a swimming pool for splashing.
CHOOSING ACCOMMODATION WHEN STAYING IN KYOTO WITH CHILDREN
Kyoto offers many different types of accommodation for families.
-For those with younger children, staying close to Kyoto Station can make train and bus travel easier (there are also many family-friendly restaurants and shopping options here.)
-For picky eaters or those with special dietary requirements or allergies, apartment hotels offer a kitchenette (and more space for families, in general.)
-Families with older children or babies in carriers tend to really enjoy staying in a Machiya (an old teahouse) or ryokan a few subway stops from Kyoto Station.
-First timers in Japan or those with very small children can have true peace of mind by choosing a hotel or apartment hotel with an English-speaking front desk. This means they will have English language support should someone in the family require medical assistance or additional tourism-related information.
-Some larger families also seek out Airbnb style accommodation in Kyoto. Many of these types of accommodations are not close to major train stations and don't always offer a lot more space than hotels - so it's important to check out this information ahead of making a reservation. Airbnb properties also means limited language support and relinquishing some of Japan's conveniences such as luggage forwarding.
Regardless of accommodation option: it is best not to bring a pack'n'play/cot from home to Japan. Firstly, because that is a lot to carry around. However, mainly because, if a hotel doesn't provide a cot for the room - it may be because there just isn't any space for one anyway.
PARTICULARLY AMAZING PLACES TO VISIT WITH KIDS IN KYOTO
This museum is incredible for babies, toddlers, teens AND adults. Check the website for opening hours/days before visiting. There is also an amazing adventure playground out front of the museum in Umekoji Park
These are just near the Kojin Bridge *Kids love that one of the stepping stones is shaped like a turtle (There is another smaller version of this in another part of Kyoto in Marutamachi opposite the Kamo Donut Horikawa Shotengai Store.)
For older kids, rent bicycles and explore the Nijo Castle, Gosho Imperial Palace and the Shinsen-en Garden area (rental companies who can rent to children of elementary school age and older are J-Cycle, The Good Day Velo and Kyoto Eco Trip.
If visiting Heian-Jingu with small children, stop by Okazaki Park for a small playground with a slide and a tram carriage for kids to play in.
Maruyama Park is a lovely open space and there are often food carts selling ice-cream and fresh juice. It's also a great spot to look for koi.
A little out of the centre of Kyoto, is lovely (and hardly touched by tourists) Enkoji Temple. The gardens here are stunning. Just 12 mins in a taxi from here is a big park with a playground called Kodomo no Rakuen in Takaragaike Koen (Takaragaike Park.). It is especially stunning here when the autumn leaves are red, orange and yellow.
Nishiki Market is fabulous for big and little kids. There is lots to see and try. There are also lots of toy shops and 100 yen shops in this immediate area.
A night walk through Gion as a family is truly stunning. Best to spend some time a Kiyomizudera Temple first and then have dinner near by. It's a beautiful spot for everyone.
Round1 Kawaramachi is a big arcade complex with bowling, karaoke, billiards, darts and arcade games. It is open pretty much 24 hours a day - although minors can't enter after 10pm and kids under 16 can't visit after 6pm without an adult present.
The Aeon Mall near Kyoto Station is a good rainy day option. Lots of family friendly restaurants, shopping and the food court floor also has a big arcade section which includes purikura -the little Photo Booth stickers. There is also a big supermarket on the ground floor.
To read more detailed advice like this about Japan with kids, check out Jo’s blog.